
After one failed attempt to go see the notorious “sea of fog,” the girls made a solid plan to get ourselves on the mountain in celebration of Juliette’s quarter-century birthday.

Phu-chee-fa, which translates to “mountain near the sky,” isn’t normally found in the Lonely Planet-farang guide, but is notorious in Thailand. If one ventures at sunrise to the top peak of this mountain, which overlooks the Thai/Lao border, you can see what literally appears to be a sea of fog. When the air is cold is creates a white wash below the peak – all you can see are the tops of the neighboring mountains below. In the day’s first light these peaks look like little islands in the ocean. It’s truly a beautiful site.

Juliette managed to get us a tour guide for the day, which seemed to be the only way to get up to the mountain without personal transportation. It was quite a climb, so I’m glad we didn’t attempt to rent the Jeep ourselves. For the first time in my Thai adventures, I was actually motion sick on the way up. This may or may not had something to do with the candy-coated peanuts.
A couple of hours later we landed at the base of the mountain, ready to set up camp. Our guide hooked us up with 3 teeny tents and a pile of blankets. We slept on a broken out cliff on the opposite side of the mountain, which, again, was gorg.
A few little kids from the orphanage in town came by and asked us if we would like tour guides in the morning. They were willing to let us name any price, and they would come get us at 5am to make it to the sunrise. We couldn’t resist.

After a delicious meal of random meats and veggies grilled on sticks, along with a pile of American-style chocolate, we settled in for what was looking like a sorta lame evening. We hadn’t bought enough beer – ugh.
In comes a troupe of 15-ish Thai college kids, roaring and ready to have a good time. Before pitching a tent, a cutie named Arm came to serenade us by the fire.
After he had jumped up and offered us shots of Thai whiskey – the instant cure to sobriety – we decided to come down and make friends.
Exactly 30 minutes and 3-ish shots later, I was wasted. I wandered over to find the other girls, sadly, not as wasted. We went to work on fixing that.

Arm tried to seduce me by the fire, and when I resisted he simply laid down on our campfire blanket and passed out. Hilarious. His friends came by to torture him and carry him away, eventually. To be honest, he was behind me and I hadn’t realized he was there.
I’m a terrible person.

Our tour guide from Chiang Rai called to say that 5am was actually too early – he’d be by around 6 to pick us up.
We all rolled into bed around 1 or so, restlessly sleeping until around 4:30. Which is when the rudest, most obnoxious person ever started blowing a whistle and talking into a loudspeaker to wake up all the drunk people who were planning to go to the top of a mountain.
The Americans all tried to sleep, but that was interrupted by the sound of little kiddies and the blazing flashlights into our tents. Our orphanage tour guides hadn’t been informed of the time change, so they were ready to go and at our tents at 4:50. AM!!!
We lazily rolled out of bed and crawled to the Thai kids’ fire that was still burning warm. As we rolled up our tents, our little guides decided that we sucked and decided to re-roll everything for us. Score.

All of a sudden we heard screaming and crashing near the bathrooms below us. It seems that a drunky had attempted to drive his truck uphill, on the side of a cliff, in the dark, without use of his first gear. The end of the story is he had to jump out of the moving vehicle as it crashed over 2 smaller cliffs before rolling into a deep ravine. This really woke everyone up.
We saw him later on the mountain top, smiling and seemingly not concerned about his truck being in a ditch. I love the Thai.

Our original tour guide arrived at 6, we packed our things in the truck and headed to the Phu. A short climb with a large crowd of Thai people and we experienced this. Gorgeous sunrise, a sea of fog … all we had dreamed of and more.
The end was pretty anticlimactic – some rice soup, a short, drowsy ride to Chiang Rai and a shitty ride back to Lampang. KIM’S story is much better.
And that was that.